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King George IV Joins the Campaign
All the same, Wilson’s of Bannockburn, the Highland Societies and other enthusiasts determined to find genuine patterns of the old, pre-1746 tartans and employed agents in the Highlands to obtain samples of cloth woven in the clan districts.
In 1819, Wilson’s produced their first pattern book of clan tartans [link widoczny dla zalogowanych], the Key Pattern B
Instead, in 1714, Parliament replaced the Catholic Stewarts with another branch descended from the Family - the Protestant Electors of Hanover in Germany. With a change of name to the House of Windsor in 1917, this same royal line retains the throne to this day.
Proscription was not rescinded for nearly forty years, until 1782. By then, the tartan had probably been in existence for around seventeen centuries, dating back to the Roman occupation of Britain which lasted until about 426AD. This is the significance of a small piece of tartan material found near the market town of Falkirk in east Stirlingshire in about 1900.
They suffered such arbitrary punishments as the decimation of the Clan Macdonald in the Glencoe massacre of 1692, and the Highland Clearances of 1763 to 1775, when thousands of clansfolk were forcibly removed from their homes.
In 1815, the Highland Society of London began a collection of tartans. Clan chiefs were asked to contribute examples of the cloth that had once made the [i]feileadhbeag (phillabeg) or “little wrap”, a very simple, some might say [link widoczny dla zalogowanych], crude, garment comprising around four yards of cloth wound round the waist and secured with a belt. The “little wrap” was afterwards transformed into the now more familiar tailored, pleated kilt.
Even before proscription ended in 1782, plans had been laid to preserve Scotland’s tartan heritage. However, the prime movers - the Highland societies formed in London in 1778 and in Edinburgh in 1780 - were nonetheless faced with a formidable task.
The ban had lasted long enough for the old weavers to die off. Furthermore, knowledge of their tartan patterns had not always been preserved and often disappeared with them.
The fourth uprising, like the other three, was a total failure and signalled the end of efforts by the Scots clans which supported the Stewart Royal Family to restore them to the throne of England.
The Falkirk sett [link widoczny dla zalogowanych], as it was named, was being used as a stopper for an earthenware pot. It comprised six colours and had an intricate pattern. The sett was later dated at sometime between 250AD and 325AD.
Scots Clan Loyalties
First Steps to Restore the Tartans
The roots of the Scots clans stretch back to the ancient Celtic kingdom of Dalriada which lay on the west coast of Scotland and was founded in around the 5th century AD. Strong clan loyalties have remained a defining feature of Scots national consciousness ever since. and the clan tartans are one of its most distinctive expressions.
Read on
The Houses of Stuart and Hanover
The Historical Naming of Scotland's Tartans
Bonnie Prince Charlie
The Falkirk Sett, an Ancient Tartan
But by far the worst penalties followed the battle of Culloden which took place in 1746 and finally extinguished Stewart hopes. Steps were taken to break up the clan system, which the Hanoverian king and his government viewed as the engine of resistance to their rule, The ban on wearing the tartan was a fundamental factor in this context.
Over the centuries, though, the clans suffered a great deal for their loyalty towards national heroes like Robert the Bruce, as well as to their ill-fated royal clan, the Stewarts. They paid a truly brutal price for it.
Penalties after Culloden
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